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God it was cold this morning! We left at around 5:30 while it was still dark out and about 30 degrees. It felt like it didn’t start to warm up till later that morning around 9 after the sun had been up for some time. Despite all my bitching about getting up so early and starting the hike in freezing temperatures, it was beautiful and I loved it and I’d do it again.
Around 14.5km after leaving Terradillos (4.7km after crossing the rio Cea), we had 2 options to take for continuing on the Camino. We could head towards El Burgo Ranero or Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos. If we stayed on the road to El Burgo Ranero, it would have been a hike next to the highway and that’s not a very pretty sight. My friends and I decided to head towards Calzadilla because it was the more scenic route than hiking next to a road and feeling like a hitchhiker (not that there’s anything wrong with that). So glad we went this way!
Calzadilla was another one of those hole-in-the-wall towns with not much in it. When we got there, we checked out the municipal albergue and found out they had no Internet at all. We needed to have internet access because Caroline had to upload her blog, and I wanted to call my family back home. If you have an iPhone, I highly suggest using an app called Viber. If you want to contact someone back home and do it for free, and if the other person has the app, it’s way more convenient and cheaper than using your regular cellular provider. We decided to spoil ourselves again by staying at a B&B style place called Casa El Cura. By all means if you get the chance to, stay here! This place was awesome! before we even had a chance to take our bags upstairs, the host and hostess (a husband and wife) offered us a gratis sangria. We went upstairs and set our bags down in our room, came downstairs, and sat in the courtyard where they brought us our sangria, and took our lunch order. I had my feet kicked up, the sun was shining, a jamon y queso bocadillo (ham and cheese sandwich) was on the way for me to munch on, cold sangria in my hand…it was just such an awesome moment. I leaned back in my chair and lit a cigarette.
The hospitaleros were hilarious. The husband came out with some sandwiches and Caroline asked for a bag of ice for her knees. He rushed out a large bag of ice and also brought a large sword with him and asked if she wanted him to cut her leg off below or above the knee! See the picture below. The best way to describe him is as the husband from the movie “Life is Beautiful.”
After lunch, we took naps, read, and I got a chance to call my sister using the Viber app I mentioned above. I used it to call and text friends back home whenever I felt a little homesick or wanted to share something with them. I definitely recommend getting this app if you have an iPhone or iPad.
Dinner was amazing as well. We were all pretty hungry, so we were ready for dinner at around 7, which is early. Dinner usually happens at around 8 or 9 o’clock in Spain. The hospilaeros obliged us and served us a little earlier than they were planning. The whole time the husband was preparing the meal, you could hear him singing in the kitchen; it had become dinner and a show. The food was fantastic as well.
It was a little pricy to stay here, about 60 Euros for one room (split 3 ways with Dom and Caroline) and the price included breakfast whereas dinner was extra. Of course this place had Wi-Fi, a living room, a beautiful courtyard, and great facilities in each room so it was definitely all worth it. We could tell this couple really enjoyed their jobs. Caroline ended up exchanging email addresses with the owner and emailed them the picture I took. Hopefully when I go back there again one day, I’ll see it hanging up on the wall somewhere.
Destination: Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos
Distance: 26.9 km
Accomodation: Casa El Cura- See description above.